Their are a couple answers to this question, but this solution fixes it 99% of the time. Poor venting or no venting of the fixture. Vents allow for air flow to the toilet sewage system. Without the vent, air pockets form in the waste branches witch can cause what is called back-siphonage. The air in the system which, without a vent, can only ecscape through the sewer. It can pull the water in the trap of the toilet with it.

Question 2: What causes my toilet to fill up with hot water instead of room temperature water? Is it bad for my toilet and does it cost extra money when it fills with hot water?

Answer:

The main reason you may have hot water in your toilet is a bad flapper in the toilet tank or a bad fill valve. Either one of these can allow the water to seep into the tank. When you have a mixing valve on your toilet to prevent condensation, some hot water is introduced into the cold water line to warm the water just a little, but when the water just seeps a little at a time the hot water dominates the cold and you get a tank of hot water. It's not bad for your toilet, but it could be hazardous to your wallet. Just like every other utility that uses hot water, the hot water being heating and leaking into the toilet takes gas and/or electricity and will run up your utility bill.

Question 3: How do you get water in the toilet tank to stop over flowing?

Answer:

The fill valve in the tank has a leak in it. Also, if the fill valve has been replaced recently it is possible that it has been set too high. If the fill valve is old, it could do you no harm to replace it. Sometimes the shaft or wire that is used to set the level, corrodes off. By replacing it your problem should be fixed.

Question 4: Is there anything I can do to get the scratches out of my toilet bowl?

Answer:

Yes, you can have your toilet refinished, which is kind of a pain to do. It requires taking the toilet out and having it out of commission for a while. If you do decide to do this make sure you contact a professional and have a back up restroom available.

Another option is to buy some porcelain patch and do it yourself. Just shut off your angle valve and flush the toilet until it is almost empty. If there is still too much water in the bowl to patch the porcelain then dumb about a gallonf water in it, the bowl should empty completely. Then read the label and directions on the porcelain patch kit. Make sure to note how long the porcelain takes to dry. DO NOT turn the water back on until the patch is completely dry.

Question 5: My toilet bowl has been "sweating" lately, is there anything I can do to fix it?

Answer:

If toilet tank sweating is your problem then here are 4 options we recommend:

You could install insulating foam products to isolate the water from the tank sides. Home Depot carries it for a reasonable price. I think they are about $7-$10. Read the directions for complete directions, but you should completely empty the water from the tank, then use a hairdryer to ensure that the sides are absolutely dry. Cut the foam and apply adhesive. Let it sit for 6 - 8 (time approximates) hours and it will be ready to be refilled and useable. This usually works but is not a guarantee.
The second option is to install a mixer valve which uses both hot and cold water to "mix" the water and adjust the temperature as you need to or until the condensation or sweating stops. Depending on how far away the hot water heater is, it may take quite awhile for the hot water to get there so in some cases, just running a hot water line is sufficient. Works well but you will most likely need to call us for assistance.
Lastly and more expensive is to replace the guts of the toilet and replace them with a "pressure assisted" unit, like the Flush mate - 1 gallon per flush. This option is a water saver and works very well - no tank sweating at all.
Total toilet replacement - Pressure Assisted Toilet - should you need to replace your old toilet. Might cost $260 on up but well worth it. This toilet has a pressure tank in it inside the water tank. Guaranteed to do the job and you get a great new toilet that works well

Question 6: Why does my water heater not work as well as it used to?

Answer:

This is usually due to a sediment buildup in your tank. As water heaters grow older, they accumulate sediment and lime deposits. If these deposits are not removed periodically, the sediment will create a barrier between the burner and the water, greatly reducing the water heater's performance level. The result is an increase in the amount of fuel required to deliver hot water.

Question 7: Why would a water heater run out of hot water faster than normal?

Answer:

If your water heater is running cold easily or frequently then several things could be happening. First check the shower head volume if shower's are too quick. A new shower head puts out about 2.5 gallons a minute. Some older heads put out 5 gallons a minute. Working with the shower head would double shower length in this case. In some cases, the dip tube on the cold water inlet has broken or worn. When this happens, it creates a short loop for the water, water at the bottom half of the tank will not be used, which makes half of your tank useless. Get it fixed as soon as possible.

On electric water heaters, they commonly have two heating elements that work in turns. First the top element heats up the top of the tank, then power goes to the lower element. If the lower element is out, only the top of the tank gets heated. If the top element isn't working, there will be no hot water. Sometimes the Reset button needs to be pushed or reset. If this doesn't get the element working, use a continuity tester to determine if the element has shorted out. Replacement of the element may be needed.

Question 8: What causes hot water to be rusty and brown?

There are a few answers to this common question. First, chemicals can cause rust in the water lines and a change in the water pressure will cause the rust to loosen up and come through the water lines and into the shower, bathtub, or other appliances.

Another cause could be a break in the pipe. What you may be seeing is dirt. What happens is when water is flowing and on, and then you suddenly turn it off, it creates a slight low pressure in the line which pulls in dirt around the pipe. When you turn on the flow, that dirt is pushed along until it comes out of the tap or showerhead. After several cycles, you can have a bunch of dirt in the lines, which dissolves and makes the water look brown or rusty.

Two other possibilities could be that the glass lining in the water heater may be compromised, allowing the metal jacket to rust. If this is the case, you don't have long until it starts to leak and will need to be replaced. Secondly, if you are on a well, iron bacteria may be growing, and may not be showing up in the cold water because it remains invisible in solution until it is heated, or has more time to react with oxygen in the water heater. In this case, shock chlorination of the well may be in order. A simple test by a water treatment company will tell this, and in many areas, it is free.

Question 9: When I fill a container with hot water it is milky, but after a few minutes, the water in the container clears up. What causes this?

Answer:

Complaints of discolored water are commonly blamed on water heaters and storage tanks, but in fact, it is a rare occurrence for today’s high quality glass lined tanks to have a lining failure significant enough to allow water to contact enough bare metal to discolor the contents of even a small tank. The most common cause of “rusty” water is a non-toxic iron reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Crenothrix, Leptothrix, and Gallionella. Water heaters and storage tanks usually require new anode rods as presence of iron bacteria contributes to premature anode failure.

The simplest treatment available is shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part.

Question 10: What causes my hot water to smell like rotten eggs? My cold water doesn't smell, what is the solution for this problem?

Answer:

The most common cause of “smelly water” is a non-toxic sulfate reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Divibrio Sulfurcans. This bacteria often enters the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate (SO₄) to hydrogen sulfide (H₂S) gas you smell in the water. Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water.

The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part. Longer lasting solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.

Question 11: What makes my plumbing & drain pipes rattle all the time?

Answer:

This problem is usually caused by the water lines not being properly isolated. It can be easily fixed but only if your water lines are easily accessible. It means that either in one or many places your water lines come into contact with the wood of your floor joists. All you need to do is get plastic pipe hangers that go between your water lines and your joists. For Help installing them please give us a call. A Plumber is always in your area and we will do our best to get it fixed as soon as possible.

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Question 12: What could contribute to a high water bill besides leaking faucets and/or pipes?

Answer:

Ninety percent of all leaks in residential plumbing systems are found in the toilet tank. Toilet tank leaks typically result from worn parts or improper alignment of some part of the flushing mechanism. It is very important to stop the leak. Stop the leak and stop the expensive water bill from hitting you every month.

Question 13: What would cause to water leak from the vent in the plumbing system?

Answer:

Water should not be leaking from your vent system. The only water that should be in your vent system should be the occasional storm water after a big storm. There should be no way for sewage or sewage water to get into your vents or system. If you have a backup you would know from water coming up from the lower floors that you have a leak. Replacing the vent should usually fix the problem.